https://doi.org/10.1140/epjs/s11734-024-01207-1
Regular Article
Wave breaking: spilling and plunging
Chemical Engineering, IIT Bombay, Powai, 400076, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
Received:
5
April
2024
Accepted:
13
June
2024
Published online:
28
June
2024
We present a computational study of spilling and plunging type of breaking waves from a sufficiently steep, (approximately) third-order Stokes wave. It is shown that at moderate steepness, spilling breaking occurs from such an initial perturbation in qualitative agreement with experiments and earlier simulations. Although differences exist in the physical mechanism employed for generating wave-breaking in experiments and simulations, similarities are nevertheless observed between the two. At larger steepness, a dramatic plunging breaking is observed. The bubble populations and their size distributions are measured for this plunging breaker and moderately good agreement is found with previous experimental data on plunging breaking (Deane and Stokes in Nature 418(6900):839-844, 2002) and recent simulations by (Mostert et al. in J Fluid Mech 942:27, 2022).
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